We've been moving kinda slow here at Burger Central lately. Perhaps it's all the grilled beef we've been eating. Maybe it's the fries. Consider this posting a mea culpa, for today, we cover not one but two burger joints: Pappa's Burgers in Houston, and Tookie's, in Seabrook.
Pappa's Burgers was the August stop on our burger journey. The restaurant is part of the incredibly popular chain, founded by brothers Pete and Jim Pappas in 1967. The Pappas brand includes high end steak houses, barbecue joints, seafood restaurants, and Mexican, Cajun and Greek outlets. The Pappas boys follow a simple strategy: good food in large quantities, peppy waitstaffs, and lots of old license plates on the walls. Chris and Harris Pappas, who currently head the company, share and estimated net worth of $200 million, so it's clear the Pappas family knows what it's doing.
The burger place is typical Pappa's. It's clean, and crowded, and staffed by energetic young people, dressed in colorful t-shirts and baseball caps. The food is dependably tasty. We've learned over the last year that not all burgers are created equal. Pappa's Burger is on the plus side of the ledger, juicy, flavorful, and accompanied by satisfying sides. All in all, a fine experience, indeed.
In September, we made the long drive to Seabrook, to sample the burgers at Tookie's, a bayside institution since 1975. Tookie's is best known for The Squealer, a half-pound patty of Angus beef and chopped bacon, and The Bean Burger, featuring crushed Doritos and Pace Picante Sauce, topped with a layer of refried beans. They also offer Pelican Eggs, a mix of smoked beef and cheese, tucked into a breaded jalapeno and deep fried. Tookie's is also known for having come back from the disaster of 2008's Hurricane Ike, when the Galveston Bay storm surge pushed four feet of water into the restaurant, destroying everything. After four years of renovations, Tookie's reopened in 2012, and has been going strong ever since.
Tookie's is the neighborhood joint equivalent of Pappa's Burgers. The place is lousy with old street signs and gas station memorabilia, just like Pappa's. The dining area is packed with customers, just like Pappa's. The waitstaff is energetic and young and peppy, just like Pappa's (although the Tookie's girls are squeezed into uniforms that are a little more, um, just like Hooter's).
The food? It was a bacchanal of beef, an orgy of onion rings, a frenzy of french fries. So much food. Sooooo muuuuch foooood. And it was all delicious, oozy and enormous burgers, hand formed and perfectly seared, onion rings as big as Cleopatra's bracelets, and skin-on, hand cut fries. We've eaten a lot of fine burgers this year, and Tookie's is right up there with the best of them.































